Weaving a future for the handloom industry

Handloom is woven into the history of Sri Lanka and the tradition dates back as far as 543 BC. When Prince Vijaya arrived in Sri Lanka after being expelled from Gujarat, India, he met the Yaksha princess Kuweni, who was spinning thread. The traditional practice was passed down the generations, and today, efforts are being made to keep the craft alive.

Skaters took handloom saris and sarongs to a revolutionary space

Both locally and internationally, Selyn is a name that is instantly associated with handloom. Sri Lanka’s only guaranteed fair trade handloom company, Selyn was founded in 1991 by Sandra Wanduragala. What began with a handful of women in the Kurunegala village known as Wandurugala is today a handloom company with over 1,000 weavers.

In celebration of World Handloom Day, which fell yesterday (7), Selyn took the initiative to organise activities and events over the weekend, raising awareness about this tradition and the industry. Yesterday, they collaborated with social design entrepreneurs and Koko Design Studio Directors Hash and Manga to lead a handloom revolution. Hash and Manga joined Selyn Fair Trade Director (Business Development) Selyna Peiris to discuss reinventing traditions on Instagram. As part of the campaign to take handloom saris and attires into a revolutionary space, skaters wearing handloom saris and sarongs took to the streets of Colombo.

The day before, on Saturday (6), Selyn organised the event “Learn how to handloom with Vajira Peiris”, with two sessions held with 10 participants each. Brunch had the opportunity to drop by and see for ourselves how handloom weaving is done. The participants took their time practising on the weaving machines and equipment, with Peiris making her way around the room and giving instructions.

Vajira Peiris is an expert in woven handloom and teaches design, colour, innovation, and technical skills in Sri Lanka and the UK.

Taking handloom saris and sarongs to the streets of Colombo

“We are using World Handloom Day to not only protect our craft by bringing people like Vajira Peiris and teaching people the basic techniques and skills,” Selyna Peiris said, adding that the collaboration with Hash and Manga is part of a campaign to showcase why it is necessary to reinvent tradition and why youth and young people should be at the forefront of it.

Selyna Peiris explained that the handloom industry has a history of over 2,500 years. “From the inception of our known history or written history, handloom has always been a part of our DNA as Sri Lankans.” From being used primarily for utility items, over the years, the industry has escalated and is today used for fashion and home items as well. Selyn also exports handloom and makes a range of products, including toys and necklaces.

Reviving the craft

Despite a history of 2,500 years, the handloom craft is not one that is currently thriving. The industry faces decline for several reasons, including an ageing labour force, uncompetitive market prices, and a lack of innovation and technology.

However, instead of letting the industry meet its eventual end, Selyn has taken it upon itself to educate local and international communities about the importance of handloom. In a statement issued by Selyn, it was also stated that the company has been awarded USAID funding to reposition Sri Lanka’s handloom globally and propel the industry into the world with greater transparency for the weaving communities and ethical practices at the core of it.

Reinventing handlooms with Hash and Manga

“As the industry has evolved and grown and come to a certain place, what should have ideally happened is that the craftsmen should have also evolved and grown and come to a place where there is perhaps more interest of the younger generation to join this industry. But that’s not the case,” Selyna Peiris said.

While Selyn is 30 years, the industry itself is over 50 years, and Peiris explained that since her mother founded the company, there have been many inspirational entrepreneurs within the space.

“What my role as a second generation leader in the industry is to see that we take handloom to a place of high premium value in the global industry but at the same time, take the people with it,” she went on to say, stressing that this must happen hand in hand.

Even with Selyn’s fair trade guarantee, Peiris explained that it isn’t done for certifications. She added that they truly believe in protecting and growing the communities, while also protecting the environment.

“A lot of people say that handloom and activism don’t go together, but I feel that is absolutely the place that it has to go together,” she said, adding that they work with vulnerable communities, consisting largely of women. “And this is where community, activism, and sustainability must come together.”

Artisan on looms at Selyn

From the passion with which Selyna Peiris spoke about strengthening the communities they work with, there was no room for doubt that at Selyn, it is truly more than a product, and goes beyond to include a community as well as our history and heritage.

“The bottom line is that we want to impress upon and inspire people that it is a journey, it is a continuous journey and we are not perfect but the commitment to uplift as you do this is so important.”

Creating the next generation of weavers

As much as we talk about the rich history associated with handloom, it is also important to ensure the craft has a future. According to Selyn Business Development Manager Saluka Kotagama, they are hoping to continue the workshops, given the response they received for the World Handloom Day event.

“We really wanted to do this because everybody has a lot of challenges in their life, so I think it was nice for us to lend something creative and something positive to everybody’s lives. People have been limited to things in terms of what they interact with and are inspired by. So the handloom workshop to celebrate World Handloom Day was something that we felt will be a positive outcome.”

Kotagama explained that due to the positive response they received, they are looking at repeating the workshop next month. “It’s something that we hope to now continue on a regular basis from beginners’ classes to advanced workshops. We are planning to have online workshops as well, so that gives the opportunity for people globally to participate and take this craft to further heights.”

Selyn works closely with artisan communities, ensuring they grow along with the industry

Echoing Peiris’ views, Kotagama said that despite the challenges thrown at the industry, they must move on. “We have a responsibility to continue and somehow or the other find answers to how we can take this industry further because we have a responsibility to our community. That is why we all passionately work towards developing it and making sure that we have a secure industry where this community can thrive.”

She added that this is why it was important to get the youth involved, as they are the next generation that can take this further. “It’s important for us to be able to show how lucrative this industry can be,” Kotagama said, adding that, they are looking at being a role model in how they do business utilising sustainable practices. This is another element they want the youth to embrace, and Kotagama said that it isn’t only about the handloom industry, but also about doing business in an ethical manner. This is something they want to take to the Sri Lankan audience and also the international community.

Kotagama went on to say: “So in spite of these little challenges that are here in Sri Lanka, we are more focused on a much bigger journey.”

She added that Selyn won’t stop here, not only in its business model but also in its creativity. They are constantly looking at how to develop the textile industry. “We want to be a pioneer in the global market and place our mark in the global industry,” Kotagama said.