By Ravini Perera
Batik is a textile that in many ways has become synonymous with Sri Lanka’s cultural identity. A print-making technique with Javenese roots, batik was first embraced centuries ago by the women of the Kandyan Court and the Central Kingdom.
This art of decorating fabric with wax and then dyeing it to create an infinite range of patterns and designs has become one of the most popular textile trades and heritage crafts in the island and today it constitutes a significant portion of the livelihoods of Lankan women.
This year, for the first time, this heritage craft has joined with another of Sri Lanka’s most famous cultural traditions and its grandest cultural event, the Kandy Esala Perahera, to make a memorable statement of craft and fashion.
The 2022 Kandy Esala Perahera of the Sri Dalada Maligawa is a festival most holy to the Buddhists in and around Sri Lanka. It is a festival that draws thousands to the streets of Kandy to witness this magnificent procession and is graced by many glamorous and elegant performers and tuskers alike.
This year, Tulip Wardrobe Founder Aruni Dissanayake has been bestowed with the rare opportunity of designing and crafting the costume of the ceremonial tusker assigned with carrying the Gajanayake Nilame at this procession. Speaking to Brunch, Dissanayake elaborated on this career highlight.
A girl with a goal
From building a brand that has been well-received by many to accomplishing excellence in her career, Dissanayake has defied all odds and proved many naysayers wrong. Her story, often unheard of, testifies to her admirable determination and courage.
Her interest and respect for the art and culture of our country led her to work towards her goal of one day contributing to the most magnificent event of the year. “I was obsessed with the thought of dressing a ceremonial tusker of the grand Randoli procession with one of my own creations. This thought was only a dream until many people began to discourage me from pursuing this wish,” said Dissanayake. “The more nega
tivity I received, the more determined I became to make this dream a reality.”
Hailing from the south of Sri Lanka, Dissanayake has always excelled in the face of challenges and the task at hand was no exception. “I knew that the task and the journey ahead would be challenging but I was determined to deliver to the best of my abilities,” she added.
Some wiggle room
Kandy, a kingdom with age-old traditions and rituals, has earned the respect of both the young and old for its continuance and maintenance of these cultures.
Despite the backlash from some, Dissanayake honours these traditions with the utmost respect and her studies into its history have only allowed her appreciation to grow. “I respect these traditions with all my heart. The time I spent working on this costume has only brought me closer to these traditions and its guardians. Hence, it was a fabulous opportunity to learn,” she said.
Many of the tasks and traditions surrounding the Palace and its rituals are guarded by selected groups of individuals through generations. Dissanayake, a novice to creating costumes, credits her inborn talents and pure luck for paving the way for her to be afforded such an opportunity at such short notice.
She added: “From the point of inquiring about these costumes, to making it through an intense screening process, and finally receiving the confirmation, it was all such a surreal experience. I am excited for everyone to see this creation move through the streets of Kandy.”
As a practice, individuals are required to satisfy standard criteria in order to be given an opportunity of designing costumes or contributing to the event in general. In the past, Kandyans and males were given priority over all others during the selection process. However, Dissanayake stated that although they did not stick to these principles any longer, the selection process had not gotten any simpler. “Alongside many other qualifications, they pay significant attention to one’s dedication and creativity,” she pointed out.
Allowing females to partake in activities of the Palace had been completely restricted until recent years. From 2010, these limitations were eased, allowing all members of the public to contribute to their heart’s content.
Fit for a king
The yards-long material decorated with an artistic yellow and red batik design pairs perfectly with its majestic and detailed rhinestone embellishments. The conceptualisation and execution of the design by Dissanayake and her team began in 2021 with the receipt of the official invitation from the Palace.
Sri Lankan traditional art has been the main inspiration behind her showstopping design. Explaining her selection of colours and designs, Dissanayake said: “I wanted the colours to be majestic yet visible at night during the procession. People are accustomed to recognising colours before they focus on the art or the details. I selected this combination keeping such factors in mind.”
Dissanayake believes in keeping our traditions alive. Hence, prioritising our culture was her main objective. “We must adapt to different trends as time passes, however we must not prioritise other cultures over our own. If you are selected to contribute to an event as incredible as this, do not forget to stick to our rich roots. Being traditional will not hinder our sense of fashion.”
Sri Lankan batik is a style unique to us. Hence, preserving as well as promoting this style is a responsibility of many, asserted Dissanayake. “It will minimise the imports of materials and costumes for these cultural events if we were to create our own,” she added.
