By Archana Heenpella
Originating from the combination of Javanese words “amba” (to write) and “titik” (dot), batik refers to a special technique of wax-resist dyeing.
These unique prints are created through a variety of tools, where the applied wax resists the dyes, allowing designers and craftsmen to apply selected colours onto fabric. This is done by soaking fabric in one or more colours, where the wax is then removed with boiling water.
Despite its Indonesian roots and obvious etymology, batik prints may have been discovered as early as the first Century A.D. in Egyptian tombs. Nonetheless, the craft forms a rich tapestry in Indonesia’s history of fashion, where there is evidence that batik was reserved for Javanese royalty.
Certain motifs, colours, and patterns may, in fact, have been used to distinguish between families, social status, and geographic belonging.
Because of its history in Southeast Asia, Indonesian batik is often considered the most developed in terms of patterns, technique, and quality. So much so that UNESCO deemed the Javanese craft a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.
Batik dyeing was later introduced to Europe in the 17th Century, becoming a fashion favourite in countries like Germany after several centuries. From there, it was only a matter of time before it was introduced to other parts of the world, perhaps through colonial conquests and expeditions.
With such a rich heritage and clear aesthetic appeal, its emergence in high fashion, several centuries later, is hardly surprising.
In 2017, British designer Stella McCartney unabashedly incorporated colourful Ankara prints into her runway collection. While these patterns hail more from an African heritage, they have their origin in the Indonesian batik technique. Belgian designer Diane Von Furstenberg is another designer who dabbled in the art of batik, with the Duchess of Cambridge Kate Middleton herself sporting her designs.
Even designer Nicole Miller made a name for herself in this niche, draping Angelina Jolie’s petite frame in silky batik numbers on numerous occasions.
Sri Lanka is not coy about its love for batik either. Here at home, designers love creating mesmerising pieces of work, tying elements of South Asian fashion in symbiotic style. Among local artists renowned for their work in this niche, Sonali Dharmawardena is a name and brand that requires no introduction.
Despite an all-encompassing experience in a range of crafts, from fine arts in oil to pottery, Sonali’s calling lies in batik designs – an area she’s made a definitive mark in recent years. One needs to only look at her Colombo Fashion Week collections for evidence.
This week, The Sunday Morning Brunch had a talk about her experience in batik designs and about the motivations behind her artistic process.
What inspired you to make batik prints such a central part of your designs?
I call myself an artist first. I use my grace as an artist to translate it into designs that can become fashion statements. So, the process involves art, at first.
Batik is my medium of expression. This is until or unless I find other mediums that give me as much flexibility and control over my medium of expression. This is key.
You’ve made batik prints entirely your own. How have you maintained your flair and creativity over the years without feeling stifled by your niche?
My flair, as you call it, is my grace or blessing.
I think when your source is pure, clean, undiluted, and not borrowed but owned, it has to play a huge part in your work. My work is my prayer.
It’s my heavenly relationship, with which I connect with God. And I feel a conduit. It doesn’t stifle me – it sets me free.
While it may not seem the case, have you experienced any challenges in making batik-printed attire a high-fashion must-have?
The challenge is when I restrict that source, sometimes, with my own emotional boundaries of pain, a lack of forgiveness, if any, and anger or frustration. Sometimes, it’s marketing boundaries of imposition.
Clients direct me. I find there’s a huge difference when the customer comes to me to enjoy my gift and when the customer tries to control or restrict this gift. This is challenging. However, since my process is a spiritual one, there’s always the ability to overcome reasonable requests or restrictions.
Sonali, therefore, approaches her work as an expression of herself, which, fortunately for the fashion market, takes the guise of beguiling batik designs. As a part of her calling, she experiments with new technology and innovation, adding different textures to the designs she creates using traditional batik techniques.
With every piece carefully crafted and utterly unique from her other designs, Sonali makes batik prints entirely her own in a way that’s bold and refreshing. Given that the designer is known for her bespoke designs, she makes sure that each piece is completely distinct from the other, giving each item of clothing the reverence with which she speaks about her craft.
